Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
